Small Towns and Real Food

March 16, 2010

Once we moved into our house a whopping two and a half weeks ago, I had this overwhelming urge to immediately dive right into the local community. Perhaps it was because since I left grad school I’ve had these big ideas of volunteering, but have never actually done anything. Or maybe it was because when we moved to Brazil I had these big ideas of being involved in the community, but was too overwhelmed with getting accustomed to my new lifestyle to actually do anything.
Notice a lot of wanting and thinking, but not a lot of doing.
So now that our feet are on the ground with a very loose grip (I still have to travel!), I wanted to get in there before I started making excuses again. My first two steps were to join the Farmer’s Market planning committee (a small event with a handful of vendors) and attend a Farm-to-Table diversity conference offered by the county’s Women in Ag organization.
Let me first explain the setting. We’ve moved to a small, rural county that is about 40 minutes from a college town of about 300,000 people, and about 90 minutes from two major, metropolitan cities. So we aren’t way out there by any means, but far enough out that you know you aren’t in the big city anymore.
What do you think of when you think of the rural areas of the US?
I’ll tell you want I think of, more food from the farm, eating from the land and consuming more nourishing, whole foods prepared like they used to be. The way that advocates of real food are encouraging – butter, lard, whole dairy, grass-fed beef, pastured eggs and pork, freshly picked fruits and veggies, and home baked breads.
Fresh fruits and veggies – check. At least when I my garden gets-to-going. Humanely raised meat and eggs – check. I buy from a local farm and so far all the farmer’s market vendors I’ve met follow the same practices.
But now, let me tell you about the Farm-to-Table event this past weekend. I went to learn about worm farm composting, herbs and photography. However, I was equally excited about the Taste of the County sampling menu we would be having for lunch.
I snuck into the kitchen early to try and get some photos and speak with the cook. I only spoke with her a few minutes, but I learned an interesting story. She once owned a catering business in Berkley, CA which then turned into a private chef business. She then got into the Alpaca business, stopped catering and moved to Kentucky. Incredibly sweet lady and I hope to learn more from her in the future.
I was all about this meal. Here is what we got to try.

Spinach and Tomato Quiche, and Barbeque Chicken Salad in Tortilla Cups

Braised Lamb on Polenta

Beef Sliders with Onion Jam

Shredded Pork with Spicy Peach Chutney

Butternut Squash Soup with Roasted Garlic


Lemon and Black Walnut Pound Cake


After lunch a person from the planning team asked how many people had tried something that they had never had before. Half the room raised their hands. Completely surprised I looked back over the menu. Okay, well maybe it was the peach chutney or polenta. It was hard for me to believe.
But there’s more.
Two days later I attended a Farmer’s Market planning meeting and one of the farmer’s mentioned that his mother had attended the event. Her comment after lunch – I can’t wait to get home and have a bologna sandwich and a Pepsi.
Then it hit me. Perhaps my perception that rural life and real food go together isn’t entirely accurate.
Cola companies, convenience food, unidentifiable cheese products have also permeated our rural communities. Did I mention that our town center is about 6 buildings total, yet driving in you will see golden arches?
The sandwich comment was also followed by discussions of how farmer’s market customers have no idea how to use new varieties of cucumbers, eggplants or butternut squash which discourages them from buying these items. Now, curry paste and udon I would understand, but vegetables in a rural community?
Needless to say, I have a lot to learn, and for my own, tiny little mission, a lot of work to do. Much of it may begin with showing people how to enjoy these foods I would have thought were common; and then convincing them that there are A LOT of people out there dying to get their hands on the local produce, humanely raised meats and artisanal products they have to offer.

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  • gastroanthropologist March 16, 2010 at 8:50 am

    Yes, rural doesn’t mean milk from the farm and eggs from the coop. I very good friend of mine who grew up on a farm in Iowa, farmed everything corn, and got everything she ever ate or owned at the local Walmart 30 miles away (ps it was the only store around). The only fruit she ever ate until she moved to California for school was apples, bananas, and oranges. I introduced her to avocados (ok, I get that an iowan may not have been exposed to this) but also that pumpkins can be used for much more than jack o lanterns, and yes, you can actually roast them like potatoes or make fresh pumpkin pie.

    She grew up on a farm and had never made pie?! It was an education for me, I have such a romanticized vision of what a farm in America really is. I’ve learned that you often don’t milk your own cow or ring a bell to have everyone come in for a supper cooked with stuff from your garden. It’s tractors, chemicals, relentless work, white bread, fingers crossed you can pay most of your bills, and hoping for a miracle so you can send your children far, far away.

  • kat March 16, 2010 at 10:29 am

    I think so much farming these days is factory farming not the sweet image we have in our heads. My friends parents grew soybeans their whole lives but had never had edimame or tofu….

  • Lori March 16, 2010 at 10:42 am

    gastroanthropologist – The pie thing is definitely surprising. All the farms here are very small scale so I think they are doing a lot of things by hand, but they just don’t realize that people want what they have to offer. They are headed to Walmart and all that like you mentioned.

    kat – That is definitely true. I don’t see much of it around here, but as I mentioned above, the value isn’t placed on this small scale stuff like it is in other places. I’m hoping that I can, in some small way, show this area what this county has to offer. My first impressions are that they are not proud enough of it.

  • Lo March 16, 2010 at 11:14 am

    Friends of ours moved to Fargo, ND a few years ago. Despite living amidst all that agriculture, they reported that there were virtually NO farmer’s markets. The message seemed to be — we live farming, it’s boring, who cares about what we do? And who wants what we produce?

    It took years before they could get involved with some local groups and support the organization of a farmer’s market.

    So, I know what you mean. For many, farming is about making a living — not about walking the walk.

  • Andrea (Off Her Cork) March 16, 2010 at 12:28 pm

    The chutneys would have been new for me! 😀 But I can see exactly this type of thing happening. I grew up in farmland rural PA. There were more livestock farms than produce farms but there were some of those. The first farmer’s market didn’t appear until I was well out of college. When my mom was here last, I made asparagus and that was the first time she ever had it! The stuff I grew up eating wasn’t varied or even fancy. Very simple stuff just like that baloney sandwich. Only ours were fried!

  • 5 Star Foodie March 16, 2010 at 12:29 pm

    Very interesting experience at this event, definitely a lot to learn. I would also think that because the farm products are more available in the countryside that they would be the main food consumed but I guess that’s not necessarily the case.

  • cathy March 16, 2010 at 12:53 pm

    I do think that there is a romanticized notion of what rural life entails. While I haven’t truly lived the rural life (despite living in the middle of no where, my little home in Wyoming is not what I think of as rural), I have spent a lot of time in rural America thanks to my grandparents and extended family. I definitely would not characterize the rural communities that I know as being full of adventurous eaters. Quite the opposite.

    Perhaps I was lucky, but while fake foods were abundant, they were surrounded by and outnumbered by fresh vegetables and fruits – always. You would find grits or cornbread instead of polenta, and fresh cucumber pickles instead of peach chutney, but the fresh stuff was there.

    I wonder if that is changing now? I’m sure it is as much a household by household thing in rural America as it is in urban America.

  • Joy March 16, 2010 at 3:33 pm

    I can see that there will be some really exciting posts coming up in the future! It will be so interesting to see how your new ventures develop! Best wishes!

  • Jennifer(Savor) March 16, 2010 at 3:37 pm

    Here I came with the purpose of a link back to Eating your Words and I was reminded how much I enjoy your blog. Excelletn topics and writing Lori

  • Tangled Noodle March 16, 2010 at 7:38 pm

    I recently read two reports for class about how both rural areas and urban centers are considered ‘food deserts’ for different reasons but similar results: the lack of freshness and variety of foods, especially produce. But it sounds as if the first steps are being taken and that people are open to new things. Best wishes for the farmers’ market planning committee!

  • Debinhawaii March 17, 2010 at 2:07 am

    Such a great and interesting post. It’s true that many of us have a certain view of small towns and farm life that does not quite match up with reality. What an interesting opportunity for you to get involved and hopefully get some change going.

  • OysterCulture March 17, 2010 at 8:57 am

    I went to school at ISU and lived in Iowa for a few years after for work, so I can appreciate your comments. Most people, I knew then shopped at one of those super stores, where you can get everything from groceries to grass seed. I could understand it was convenient and frankly there were not a lot of options.

    However, I think a lot of it had to do with what people do for a living – my grandmother stayed at home – we had incredible baked and canned goods. However a lot of farmers wives had full time jobs, raised a family and assisted on the farm – there’s just not a lot of time left, so some short cuts had to be made.

    When I was on a big telecom project – they got a Subway sandwich shop in a small town in Iowa, and you would have thought the president had shown up, the lines were out the door.

  • Lori March 18, 2010 at 4:56 am

    Lo – Thanks for your comment. I think you hit the nail on the head. It’s about making a living. For me, and others, it is a luxury. Kind of makes me think what others think about me and my travel. 🙂

    Andrea – Yeah, come to think of it our small town didn’t start a FM until last year. I guess I was lucky bc my dad gardened as a hobby so we ate it all. Our baloney sandwiches were fried too. Ha, ha! My dad loves them with eggs and cheese.

    5 Star – Yes, people’s comments here are really helping us see the other side of the fence.

    cathy – My great grandparents were the same way. The fake stuff made an appearance in my grandparent’s and parent’s generation, but like you said, there was always fresh stuff too. I do fear this is changing more now though.

    Joy – That may be a bonus of my mission – some good content. Ha, ha!

    Jennifer – Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

    TN – Thanks! That sounds like a very interesting report. Brings up a great point.

    Deb – Thanks, I hope so. 🙂

    OysterCulture – I already noticed a Subway in town so I won’t get to see such a sight. Ha, ha! You bring up a great point regarding time. Whether you are on a farm from dawn to dusk or in an office cubicle, it’s the same situation. Little time for homecooking.

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