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Culture and Food History

Last Stop Blumenau: German Food in Brazil

May 5, 2009

On our drive back from Floripa we took the opportunity to spend the night in the city of Blumenau, Brazil in the state of Santa Catarina. We had heard so much about it since moving to Brazil especially about the Oktoberfest there. The one here actually does take place in October, usually the first two weeks.

This part of the country is in an area called the European Valley. Here there are towns with residents which have held tight to their strong European roots. The area reflects the cultures of Italy and German and in many places Italian and German are spoken as much or more than Portuguese.


Blumenau still has some remaining German touches within it. The main street through the city has a German feel and there are some buildings that look like they are straight out of old Europe, however, it has changed a lot. We’ve learned that you really have to go to some of the smaller towns to experience the strong German influence and unfortunately we didn’t have time this trip.

Despite the lesser German feel of the city, the food was top notch. The best part about the area was the beer. Microbreweries are all over the area some featuring selections we can’t get anywhere else. We stopped for beer and snacks in the center of town to get some Eisenbahn which is brewed in Blumenau.


We can also get this beer in Curitiba, but I it was incredibly fresh from the source and tasted amazing. My favorite is the Weiss. Our snack was fried mandioca wrapped in bacon. This was something different for us and I’m so glad we tried it. Mandioca (manioc, yucca) is a really unique root vegetable for me and it was excellent prepared like this.


Aside from all the seafood on the rest of our trip, the other meal we couldn’t wait to have was at the restaurant Frohsinn which sits atop the city offering some great views. We were really expecting more of a beer garden, but this place turned out to be a bit of an upscale restaurant. Good thing it is hard to be underdressed in Brazil! Jeans are pretty much accepted everywhere.


We couldn’t resist the Oktoberfest Platter. Of course they said it was for two people, but four could have eaten it. Look at this thing!


It featured stuffed duck, sausages, pork knee, some other random pork meats, spaetzle, pureed peas with bacon, sauerkraut and potatoes. It was quite a feast! I think the pork knee was my favorite. It was actually a little better than the one I had in Vienna last summer.

Another highlight is that we got to try a beer called Schornstein from a small town nearby called Pomerode. This is one of those varieties we can’t get elsewhere and it was excellent. It was lighter than a traditional Weiss and had a lot of the same qualities as a Pilsen, but with more flavor.


Unfortunately we were too full for dessert that night. Don’t you think we should be! You’ve seen all this wonderful food from our trip and now it has finally come to an end. From pastries to seafood to German fare it was quite a food-filled adventure!

Balsamic Pasta and Rodizio Dining

February 5, 2009


I haven’t been a fan of balsamic vinegar for very long. I used to find that its flavor was too sour, too intense. As time has gone on, I am realizing that it was more the quality I was buying that was causing the problem rather than the actual vinegar itself.

I find that I almost crave it now. I use it on my salads with olive oil all the time and my most recent discovery – balsamic vinegar with pasta.
Let me back up a little bit.

There is a type of dining here in Brazil called rodizio (hoe-dee-zee-oh). If you’ve been to a Brazilian steakhouse you somewhat get the idea, but the style extends way beyond this. Basically, you sit down to your meal and servers bring food around to you and you select as much as you want.

At a steakhouse the food of choice is meat, however, you can eat rodizio pizza, seafood, sushi and pasta in Brazil. There is a place in town that serves rodizio pasta here. I had heard that the chef was a very experienced gentleman who has lived in many cities in the world working for a Brazilian airline and their associated hotels. Lucky for us he then move to Maringa and opened his pasta rodizio restaurant.

Let me first explain that gourmet dining or anything remotely close is a rarity here. There are few nice restaurants in town, but most of them serve meat after meat after meat. There isn’t much variation or what I would call culinary skill involved. I’m not saying it doesn’t take skill to make good meat, but that is a cultural thing here. Almost all men know how to make it well. However, culinary art remains at only a couple restaurants in town.

Before I go on I must also fit in a quick aside. A few weekends ago in my links I mentioned that we eat out here much more than we did in the US because the prices are so incredibly reasonable. This meal is a perfect example. This buffet of excellent pastas served to you in a dimly lit, date-night atmosphere came in at R$15 per person. That’s U$ 6.58 a person at the current exchange rate.

Here is a bit of a photo tour of some of the dishes before I explain my balsamic dish.

First there was a salad of greens topped with a pickled eggplant and, of course, rice. I have yet to be to a restaurant here focusing on any type of cuisine that did not serve rice.


A sweet coconut flan-type cup sitting in a spoonful of an herb and pepper sauce. A very interesting contrast of flavors.


Pasta with a sauté of chopped pears and cinnamon.


The unique award went to our dessert – Chocolate Gnocchi. It was traditional homemade potato gnocchi served in a hot chocolate sauce with hot pepper. The sweet flavor with a very subtle heat in the back of the throat was perfect. I would love to try and recreate this.


There were many other things like lasagna scented with cinnamon, spaghetti with garlic and oil, and sweet potato dish with a honey mustard topping and chicken, but I will stop there.

About half way through the meal the waiter brought out this dish. I could tell right away from the smell that it contained balsamic vinegar so I gladly accepted.


It was a tortellini-like pasta fill with a strong cheese in a balsamic vinegar. Seems too simple to be exciting, but the contrast of the flavor of the cheese with the tartness of the vinegar was excellent.

I was in the kitchen the other deciding on a lunch. I had zucchini that needed to be used and then I noticed a small bowl of left over cheese tortellini from a previous meal. They sell a variety of fresh pastas in the supermarket it here and it’s an easy go-to dinner on the nights I don’t feel like putting forth much effort. So I took my leftovers and set out to recreate the dish similar to the one from the restaurant.

I was thrilled with the results and I can’t wait to make it again! I went heavy on the veggies so I would need less pasta. It is delicious, but also a bit heavy and high in calorie.

You can add the balsamic vinegar at any point during the cooking process. The heat will cook out the acidity making it sweeter. If you don’t like a strong flavor add it early. I like to add it after the dish is cooked because of the tartness and this most closely resembles the original dish.

Balsamic Vegetable Tortellini
Makes 1 serving

Olive oil
Small zucchini, chopped
¼ onion, sliced
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ to ¾ cup fresh cheese tortellini
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

Put just a bit of oil in your skillet and sauté veggies until they reach your desired consistency. I like mine still a bit crunchy. Add pasta to heat through. Toss with vinegar and serve.

A Country without a Food

January 26, 2009

I think I neglected to mention that I finally got my hands on a copy of Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma. Although I am now half way through it, I was only a few pages into the intro when I knew I would love it. This was all due to the comment below:

As a relatively new nation drawn from many different immigrant populations,
each with its own food, Americans have never had a single, strong, stable
culinary tradition to guide us.

The moment I read it I wanted to exclaim, “Yes, that is exactly what I had been thinking!”
If you are from the US (or even if you aren’t) have you ever thought about this issue? It is one of those things that really came to the forefront for me when I moved abroad. The US doesn’t have a traditional claim-to-fame food. We try to say foods such as hamburgers and fries or apple pie, but the truth is most of those things can be traced back to European countries.
There are some things here and there, but none of them really stand out and say US. You know, like Brazil and feijoada, Ireland and shepherd’s pie, Germany and sausages, France and bouillabaisse, Japan and sushi. The list could go on and on, and the truth is many of these countries have multiple dishes that hold some portion of their identity.
The main reason this issue comes to mind as a traveler and ex-pat is that many of us go to other countries to experience the food. Then we have conversations with those of that country about coming to the US. If you’ve ever had a discussion like this you know where the food conversation goes.
Yep, you guessed it – fast food.
Around here, people go on and on about all the fast food places we have in the US. This always makes me cringe. It is downright embarrassing. Is this really what we are known for in the world of food? Unfortunately, to many people, yes.
I live in a smaller city in Brazil and every year they have a world food fair. At this event there are booths that serve foods typical to other parts of Brazil and other countries of the world. Want to know what they have in the US booth?
Hotdogs.
And people are lined up for these every night. It is a foot long hot dog bar. You get to choose the toppings of your choice.
At first sight of this I was pretty disgusted. I mean, I love a good hot dog at a cookout or better yet a Chicago style dog, but, once more I ask, is this really what we are known for?
Then again, when I tried to think of a substitute nothing came to mind. It was when I read that statement by Michael Pollan that I realized that we really don’t have a food.
That isn’t too say we don’t have great food. Our melting pot is brimming over with delicious eats, but when you get to the core of things nothing stands out as ours.
As the book somewhat suggestions this is what might lead to our unrealistic accusations that come out about once every few years identifying a certain food as an enemy – white rice, pasta, potatoes. I can only imagine what other cultures think of our damning these real foods they see as staples. Not to mention the fact that we feel these foods are killing us and the countries who regularly consume them seem to be happy and healthy without problem.
So what do you think of this issue? Is there a food out there I am missing?
Does our lack of a food of our own make us who we are as a melting pot or is it hurting our ideals regarding healthy eating?

Photo by Nicolas Raymond, http://www.morguefile.com/

Teff

September 10, 2008

Ever heard of it?

I hadn’t, but Ethiopian food is one of the cuisines I have yet to try. Apparently this is an up and coming grain which is a cereal crop in Ethiopia.

I’m really getting into this introduction of new grains that seems to be the trend in healthy eating. It is exciting that there is a whole world out there of different textures and flavors to be discovered.

The Purdue University Department of Horticulture provides some info on Teff and some recipes. It is often ground into flour and is grown in the US, but usually in small amounts to supply Ethiopian restaurants.

I came across it while catching up on my magazine reading last night. Apparently Teff is full of iron, calcium and fiber. In addition, it appears to be very low in gluten.

It can be eaten like oatmeal or mixed with things like ground meat to add nutrition to burgers or meat loaf. I did a little search and actually found it mentioned on several food blogs throughout the past few years.

So what’s the news? Have I been left in the dark with this new-to-me grain, or is everyone else just now discovering Teff too?

Adding it to my list of new foods to try:
Black Rice
Quinoa
Teff

Photo by Rasbak, Wikimedia Commons
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