It all changed the night we ordered green papaya salad in Bangkok during our trip to Thailand a few years ago. Up until this dinner I had learned that when you ordered foods spicy they were served to you – tourist spicy. This means that there was barely a chili to be found in the dish. Disappointing, because while I knew I didn’t necessarily want Thai-spicy, I still like spicy food.
That night in Bangkok my husband and I both ordered Som Tam, and I asked for it spicy. The waitress replied, “You want it spicy?” I think I remember saying – a little spicy – but looking back I’m pretty sure she didn’t hear me.
After delivering our order I watched the waitress walk away and sit down at another table with others. Then I looked over at the bar and realized all the staff was watching us.
Once we tasted the green papaya salad we knew why. They wanted to see our reaction. It was by far the hottest thing I have eaten. In our cooking class earlier that week, we had added about three Thai chilies to our Som Tam. I’d say there were no fewer than 10-12 in this version.
I tried coaching my husband, telling him – You can’t stop. You have to keep eating it so you don’t feel the burn! A few bites later for me, and about a half a bite for him, we admitted defeat. When the waitress returned to the table to clear our plates, she gave a smirk and said, “It was too spicy?”
We knew then that there was a bit of a joke being played on us. We’re good sports though; glad we could give them a show.
Fortunately this experience didn’t ruin my preference for Som Tam. It remains one of my favorite meals. I’ve always wished I could make it at home, but green papayas are non-existent around here.
Well, almost non-existent.
I made it up to Jungle Jim’s International Market in Cincinnati this past weekend, and just about squealed out loud when I saw green papaya in the produce section.
This is a modified version of Som Tam. To be honest, I forgot exactly what was in it and failed to pick up some long beans at the market. I also refuse to by supermarket tomatoes this time of year. So this version is without the beans, tomatoes and dried shrimp, but the flavor of the sauce with the garlic, lime and fish sauce was perfect. Even without these ingredients it still tasted just like what we had in Thailand.
This dish can be made with shredded carrot too, but it’s worth the wait if you can find a green papaya. And in those pictures, the chopsticks are just for show. This is a dish most often eaten with your hands accompanied by sticky rice.
I still remember our cooking instructor telling us that foreigners always took too much rice and salad in their fingers when eating. “Just take a little bit,” she said.
Som Tam (Green Papaya Salad)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 – 2 Thai birds eye chilies, sliced
1 green papaya, peeled and shredded
Juice of 2 limes
2 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp mascavo sugar (palm sugar is used in Thailand)
¼ cup dry roasted peanuts, chopped
If you have a mortar and pestle, use it. But you can still make this if you don’t. A bowl and a heavy kitchen tool such as a meat tenderizer worked for me.
Start by mashing the garlic and chilies together. Continue to work them until they are completely smashed and start to form a bit of a paste. Stir in the green papaya. Begin to smash it gently with the garlic and peppers to bruise it slightly.
Next add the lime juice, fish sauce, and sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the peanuts, reserving a few to sprinkle on top. Serve with steamed sticky rice. Makes 3-4 servings.
Here are some other recipes for Som Tam around the web.
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